Notes from the Road

Reporting from Jeju Island

An homage to the incredible women divers (Haenyeo) in Jeju.

Let's just get this out of the way. I have COVID. 

Seoul is a city of 9.9 million people, so yes, I wore masks like it was 2020. Not those flimsy blue ones you get at the doctor's office. Not the cloth Everlane ones I wore throughout the pandemic. I wore the official-sounding kind of mask with le…